Peponi Hotel, Lamu

Location: Perched right on the edge of the Indian Ocean in the charming village of Shela on Lamu Island in Kenya, Peponi Hotel is a coastal classic. It overlooks the dhow-filled channel that separates Lamu from the mainland, with whitewashed buildings, sandy lanes, and swaying palms giving it an old-world, almost Mediterranean feel - but with that unmistakable East African soul. You reach the hotel by boat, which immediately sets the tone for a slower, gentler rhythm. Life here moves with the tides, and Peponi is perfectly placed to soak it all in - whether you're watching passing dhows from your hammock or wandering into Shela to explore its narrow streets and artisan shops.

Rooms: Each of the hotel’s rooms is individually styled, simple yet characterful, and designed to make the most of the ocean breeze. Expect large shuttered windows, traditional Swahili beds with billowing mosquito nets, and private verandas - some with swinging daybeds or direct sea views. There’s a deliberate lack of modern excess here, which only adds to the charm: no TVs, no air con, just ceiling fans, sea air, and peace. Whether you're in a garden room or one of the superior beachfront rooms, the atmosphere is unfussy, romantic, and steeped in the laid-back elegance that defines Lamu.

Amenities: Peponi is more boutique beach house than resort, but it has everything you need for a relaxed stay. There’s a small freshwater pool, a shaded garden, and several open-air lounges for reading, chatting, or simply doing very little. The restaurant has a strong reputation up and down the coast - fresh seafood, zingy Swahili flavours, and legendary house cocktails, all served with a view of the water. The bar is a favourite gathering spot for sailors, artists, and long-time Lamu regulars, giving the place a lived-in warmth. Service is discreet and personal - many of the staff have been here for years.

Activities: Life at Peponi tends to be delightfully unhurried, but there’s still plenty to do if the mood strikes. You can arrange dhow sailing trips through the mangroves, snorkelling excursions, or sunset cruises with chilled rosé and fresh prawns on board. Guided walks through Shela or over to Lamu town reveal centuries of Swahili history and architecture, while further inland, it’s possible to visit rural villages or explore ancient ruins. Yoga sessions and beach picnics can be organised on request, and the long, empty sweep of Shela Beach is perfect for early morning runs or lazy afternoon swims.

Sustainability: Peponi has been part of the Lamu landscape for generations, and its approach to sustainability is both low-key and deeply rooted in the local community. The hotel employs almost entirely from the island, sources ingredients locally where possible, and supports a number of local initiatives -from marine conservation projects to heritage preservation and education programmes. There's a strong focus on reducing waste, minimising plastic use, and working in harmony with the rhythms of the island. Staying here supports an independent, Kenyan-owned property with real history and heart.