I’ve just returned from another incredible safari in Botswana, and the question I get asked the most is: what is it about this place that makes you keep going back?
Honestly, it’s hard to sum up in a sentence. After living in Botswana for five years and exploring safaris across Africa, I can say this: Botswana completely redefines what a safari should be. It’s not just a bunch of game parks, it’s a vast, untouched wilderness built on a “high-value, low-volume” tourism model. That means fewer people, more space, and a truly intimate, sustainable experience with nature.
This trip, during peak dry season, reminded me why I love it so much. Wildlife was everywhere, drawn to the shrinking water sources, making sightings dramatic and unforgettable. I cruised through the glittering waterways of the Okavango Delta (which had record-breaking floods this year!), explored the predator-packed Khwai Private Reserve, and ventured deep into the remote Xudum Reserve - yes, the same place where Big Cats 24/7 is filmed!
And when I showed my husband the photos from this trip, his reaction said it all:
“I don’t want to see any more as they all look like they’ve come out of a National Geographic Magazine!” - Peter Miller – long-suffering husband of a Travel Consultant!
The Okavango Delta is Botswana’s showstopper, a true natural wonder and a UNESCO World Heritage site. What makes it so mind-blowing? It’s the world’s largest inland delta, but instead of flowing into the ocean, it vanishes into the Kalahari Desert. Crazy, right? Every year, floodwaters from the Angolan highlands sweep in during Botswana’s dry season, peaking around June to August. This timing is everything; it turns the Delta into a lifeline for wildlife when the rest of the land is bone dry.
This seasonal rhythm creates a magical mix of permanent swamps, floodplains, and islands, pulling in animals from far and wide. During peak flood season, spotting wildlife is a dream, they all gather around the water, making game drives and boat trips unforgettable.
And speaking of experiences, the Delta is pure adventure. Picture yourself gliding silently through papyrus-lined channels in a mokoro (a traditional dugout canoe). It’s peaceful, intimate, and gives you a front-row seat to the little details: a tiny reed frog clinging to a stem, a slaty egret stalking fish, or the flash of a lilac-breasted roller. For bigger thrills, hop on a motorboat and cruise through deep channels and lagoons where hippos grunt and Nile crocodiles lurk reminders that this is still wild Africa.
The Okavango is also a sanctuary for endangered species like African wild dogs, cheetahs, and rhinos (though rhino sightings are rare). And then there’s the sheer abundance of game: red lechwe splashing through the shallows, elephants wading across lagoons, and endless photo ops that will fill your camera, and your soul.
Bordering the famous Moremi Game Reserve, the Khwai Private Reserve (KPR) and its neighbouring community concession offer a safari experience that feels way more flexible and exclusive than what you’d get in a national park. Here, the rules aren’t as strict, which means you can go off-road to follow a leopard on the hunt or head out on a thrilling night drive to spot nocturnal creatures like civets, porcupines, and even the elusive aardwolf.
The Khwai region is a predator hotspot. Lions, leopards, and healthy packs of African wild dogs roam freely across a stunning mix of riverine forests, open grasslands, and seasonal waterholes. The best part? It’s rare to bump into more than one or two other vehicles at a sighting. That sense of privacy makes every encounter feel personal, a real luxury in today’s safari world.
One morning stands out as unforgettable. Our guide, an absolute pro with an incredible knowledge of the land tracked a leopard using subtle signs in the environment. Before we knew it, we were watching this gorgeous cat lounging in a massive leadwood tree. Later that night, we joined a night drive and spotted a pack of wild dogs moving through the darkness, their painted coats glowing in the spotlight as they set off on a hunt. Goosebumps.
What makes KPR even more special is its community-run approach. Staying here means you’re directly supporting local communities and conservation efforts, so your safari feels meaningful and sustainable. Many guides are locals themselves, sharing not just wildlife knowledge but cultural stories and ancient survival skills that add a whole new layer to the experience.
The Xudum Reserve might not get as much buzz as Botswana’s big-name safari spots, and that’s exactly why it’s so special. This place is pure wilderness, untouched and remote, the kind of landscape that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Think endless horizons, sprawling mopane woodlands, and floodplains that seem to stretch forever. Out here, the sense of isolation is real, and honestly, that’s the magic.
Mokolwane Camp, like most lodges in Botswana’s private concessions, keeps guest numbers low. That means peace, quiet, and the feeling that you’ve got the wild all to yourself. No crowds, no rush, just you and the rhythms of nature.
The activities here are all about immersion. Walking safaris are a highlight, giving you the chance to slow down and really connect with the land. You’ll learn to read tracks, identify dung (yes, it’s fascinating!), and discover the tiny details that make this ecosystem tick. It’s raw, it’s real, and it makes you appreciate just how vast and intact Botswana’s conservation model truly is.
For seasoned safari-goers, Xudum is a dream. It’s not about ticking off the Big Five in record time, it’s about feeling the scale of the wilderness and savouring the privilege of having it almost entirely to yourself.
Our first stop and what a treat – I was blown away by Khwai Private Reserve and on our very first game drive we saw a heard of over 400 Elephants, crossing the waterways. It was one of the most surreal moments I have ever witnessed on safari....so many elephants, you couldn’t fit them all in one eyeline!
Year-Round:
• Morning & afternoon game drives.
• Mokoro safaris (water-level dependent).
• Visit our underground hides on request, by helicopter.*
• Helicopter flights over the Okavango Delta.*
• Fishing: 01 Mar - 31 Dec (no fishing permitted Jan - Feb due to breeding season).
• Be part of the KPR Ranger Experience and spend time tracking predators, capturing data, patrolling and if time allows visiting conservation projects.* (Proceeds of which will be allocated to conservation efforts in KPR).
• In-room spa treatments.*
Dry Season:
• Boating safaris (water-level dependent).
• Walking safaris**. (Only offered in the winter/ drier months for better visibility.)
*At additional cost.
Elephant Pan wsa a completely different experience and the absolute highlight here is the waterhole which is right in front of camp. Another fabulous experience was spending a couple of hours in their underground hide. We were so close you could see the hairs on the end of the trunks!
Year-Round:
• Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives.
• Visit our underground hide offering spectacular photographic opportunities.
• Grab your comfiest walking shoes and experience a guided walk through the bush with your trusted safari guide. Walking safaris are seasonal, subject to rainfall and vegetation.
Wow – what can I say about this experience, other than it was truly special in every way. From the small team who clearly love their job, to making our own delicious dinner together in miniature ‘poikke’ pots to the main even of sleeping under the Milky Way with the call of the lions lulling us to sleep.
• Visit our underground hide, en-route to Skybeds for some spectacular up-close photographic
opportunities.
• Guided bush walks available on request
• Sundowners overlooking the waterhole followed by dinner under the starlit sky.
• Stargaze the night away as you lie tucked up in bed, atop your double-story raised platform.
If I was pushed to pick a favourite camp from my trip – this would absolutely be it! It was simple, yet perfect in every way and to top it off you arrive via helicopter which is just an unreal experience as you spot the pods of hippos below! The vaulted ceilings also make a nice change and truly show off the remarkable location direct from your bed.....bliss.
• Enjoy morning and afternoon into evening game drives exploring the beautiful yet diverse ecosystems, looking for predators stalking the big herds.
• Experience a meandering mokoro safari (water-level dependent).
• Relax on your shady tent deck, coffee and binos in hand, looking for spectacular sightings
that come close to camp.
• Ideal for bird lovers, there are plenty to tick off the list!
• With big open skies, enjoy incredible star-gazing opportunities.
• Take a scenic helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta.*
This is a real gem in a sometimes ‘samey’ environment... the true opulence of the Uncharted Africa branding and history is evident throughout the camp. With plush fabrics, bright colours and an afternoon tea to die for this is a unique offering. Not to everyone’s taste.... a little like Marmite... you’ll either love it or hate it!
Morning and afternoon game drives.
• Enjoy incredible bird watching.
• Boating and mokoro safaris.*
• Helicopter flights over the Okavango Delta and to view ancient rock paintings.**
• Spa treatment.**
• Fishing: 01 Mar - 31 Dec (no fishing permitted Jan - Feb due to breeding season).
• Cooling off around the swimming pool.
• Head out by heli on a community visit to meet with some of our community-based outreach partners in the nearby villages. You’ll also spend time with one of our conservation partners to see first hand how together we are able to make a difference to wildlife conservation in the area. **
The reason that I truly love Botswana, is hard to put into words, but I'd say that up near the top, would be that luxury is not measured by opulent amenities but by the sheer expanse of untouched wilderness and the quality of the interactions with nature. Isn’t that what it should all be about...?
If you’re looking for an African safari that’s authentic, exclusive, and deeply moving, Botswana is hard to beat. The smell of wild sage on the breeze, the distant roar of a lion under a sky bursting with stars, these are the moments that make you want to come back again and again. I know I have… and I’ll keep returning for years to come.
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