Traveller's Tales: Tamara's Week in St Helena

In March 2025, I was lucky enough to go and experience the island of St Helena in the South Atlantic, approximately a 5-hour flight from Johannesburg and Cape Town in South Africa.

This little gem of an island is one of the most remote islands on the planet, and only recently began scheduled flights from South Africa. During November – March, there are 2 flights per week from Cape Town and Johannesburg on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and the rest of the year, only one flight lands per-week every Saturday from Johannesburg.

A typical stay on the island is one week to ensure you experience everything the island has to offer! Below is a day-to-day breakdown of my experience on the island.

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Day 1 – Journey to St Helena and Arrival at The Mantis Hotel

After an early start in Cape Town, we made our way through the airport and onto the Airlink flight for our 2-hour flight to Walvis Bay in Namibia to refuel. Once filled, after about 30 minutes on the ground, we were back on our way to St Helena. Three hours later, we were on the final approach into St Helena Airport. This was one of the most interesting landings I’ve ever experienced, flying in with volcanic features seen over both wings. It did feel like we were landing on Mars. For the airport to be built, a large portion of a hill was removed and flattened to make space for the runway. We headed through a very smart terminal to show proof of insurance and pay for our visa for entry.

Note: There are no ATMs on the island, so be sure to bring enough cash for the week.

We were then driven on a scenic route from the airport towards Jamestown, within 15 minutes of driving, the landscape changed drastically from a harsh, arid desert to lush and tropical forests with a noticeable drop in temperature.

On arrival into Jamestown, we were transferred to our home for the week, the Matis Hotel. A 30-room modern hotel ideally located in the centre of Jamestown. Just a few minutes' walk to the shops, the pub, and the waterfront, also known as the Wharf. We were greeted by Matthew Joshue, the Head of St Helena Tourism. After a welcome drink in the hotel courtyard, we had the afternoon to settle in and recover from our long morning before meeting back in the hotel courtyard for our first dinner on the island. We enjoyed a classic St Helena dinner of fish cakes and tuna. The Matis Hotel seems to be a hub of the town for both visitors and residents of Jamestown.

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Day 2 – Full day driving tour of the island

Mornings on St. Helena are a delightful start to the day. After a hearty breakfast, guests can choose between a traditional continental spread or one of three unique, cooked breakfast options that change daily - each offering a delicious taste of local flavours.

Our adventure began with Aaron from Aaron's Adventures, who picked us up in his trusty 4x4 for a day of exploration. As we drove around the island, Aaron shared fascinating insights about each area’s unique features, making the journey as educational as it was scenic.

One of the highlights of the day was watching an Airlink plane land at St. Helena Airport. The approach is notoriously tricky due to the island’s steep terrain, and seeing the aircraft navigate this challenging runway was nothing short of incredible. For lunch, we met Aaron’s partner, Julie, for a lovely cold lunch at the picturesque Sandy Bay. The setting was perfect, and the food was a refreshing break before continuing our adventure.

After lunch, we made our way southwest, exploring the island’s final section. A special addition was visiting The Bell Rock, a unique boulder that rings like a bell when struck with a smaller stone! The rugged beauty of the landscape left us in awe, and we took in the breathtaking views before heading back to Jamestown.

By late afternoon, we arrived back in the town just in time to relax with a cold beer back at The Mantis. After a refreshing shower, we gathered for a delicious dinner at the hotel, reflecting on the amazing day we had exploring this remote and remarkable island.

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Day 3 – Whale Sharks, Museums, and 300-Year-old Plantation Houses

After a hearty breakfast, we made our way to the wharf to meet Craig, our guide for the day’s adventure from Dive St Helena. He took us on a boat ride along the coastline to one of the most popular spots to find whale sharks. The boat itself was a long, wide, flat-bottomed open vessel, perfect for navigating the rough waters of the island.

Craig provided a thorough safety briefing and equipped us with snorkelling goggles and fins. The water was incredibly rough, and we got drenched on the way, but the journey was well worth it. We were lucky enough to spot two magnificent whale sharks

The highlight of the trip was when we swam alongside one of the whale sharks for about 15 minutes. Despite its immense size, we kept a safe distance of about 3 meters for most of the swim. After our thrilling encounter, we returned to Jamestown Bay, where we swam over to explore the famous Papoui shipwreck, a fascinating site to visit.

Next up is a museum tour with Adam. The tour was incredibly informative, offering us a deep dive into the island’s rich history and a chance to view fascinating artifacts from the various groups that have called St. Helena home over the centuries.

After the tour, we headed back to the hotel to freshen up before heading out for dinner. We dined at the Farm House Lodge, a charming 300-year-old plantation house now run by Steve and Maureen, a lovely couple who both have backgrounds in the merchant navy. The house itself was beautiful, but it was the garden that truly stole the show - a lush tropical oasis with plants handpicked by Charles Darwin during his visit to the island.

Our dinner at Farm House Lodge was a memorable five-course, farm-to-fork dining experience. Each course was a delightful showcase of local ingredients, and we finished the meal with a cup of St. Helena’s famous homegrown coffee in the cosy drawing room. A special touch was being shown by Steve's vintage 1967 Rolls-Royce, which he has kept in immaculate condition.

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Day 4 - Plantation House, Jonathan the tortoise and St Helena's slave history

Our morning started with a visit to the Governor's residence, Plantation House. Built in 1792 by the East India Trading Company, this house has been home to the Governors of St Helena. Filled with historic furniture and paintings that cover the walls. This tour included a sit-down treat with tea and local coffee. Before we headed off, a visit was paid to Jonathan, the 196-year-old tortoise. He is the oldest living animal on earth and is worth the trip!

Afterward, we took the ferry to Rupert’s Valley, the island’s commercial port, which also holds significant historical importance as the burial site for liberated slaves from the Trans-Atlantic slave trade. Here, we learned about the excavation and respectful reburial of their remains. Shelly, our guide from the St Helena National Trust, provided a captivating tour, and I highly recommend it for anyone wanting to understand more about this part of the island’s history.

The day wrapped up with a delicious four-course dinner at Dan’s Café in Jamestown - a perfect end to a day full of history, culture, and great food.

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Day 5 – Marine Safari, Fish Fry Saint Style

After another lovely breakfast at The Mantis, we took a short walk down to the wharf and back towards the dive centres. Today we were on a larger boat and taken towards the leeward side of the island. This took us through quite rough water due to the wind coming across the ocean towards the island. On route, we came across a huge pod of dolphins, which playfully surrounded the boat for about 30 minutes. The dolphins put on a show, jumping out of the water, swimming alongside the boat, which was a surreal experience.

We ended the day with a sundowner and a Saint Helena Fish Fry at the world's “least pretentious yacht club”. This was a great experience with a busy and thriving atmosphere. All kinds of people came together to enjoy music and traditional St Helena food!

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Day 6 – Hike to Blue Point, coffee plantation tour and tasting

St Helena has 21 post-box walks. These walks vary from a relatively challenging walk to a much more difficult hike that requires a certain level of fitness and stability. We went on the Blue Point hike, which is considered relatively easy. We spent approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes making our way along a ridge to a point on the coast with beautiful and dramatic views of the shoreline below.

After a picnic lunch provided by the hotel, we made our way to Wrangham's coffee plantation. The coffee that is produced on this farm is some of the most expensive in the world! The original Green Tip Bourbon Arabica bean has been completely unchanged since being brought to the island in the 1700s. A tour of the coffee grounds by the owner was followed by a thorough explanation and demonstration of how the coffee beans are taken from the bush and each step to the point they are roasted and packaged, ready to be sold. A delicious spread of cakes and biscuits with a complimentary coffee was enjoyed at the end of the tour.

After a quick shower at the hotel, we made our way to the waterfront where Chef Roy, the ex-head chef of the Royal Mail Ship that was used to carry cargo and passengers between the UK, Cape Town and St Helena, prepared an incredible 4-course meal.

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Day 7 – Napoleonic Tour and the Last Supper

We kicked off our day with a tour led by Aaron’s Tours, which took us to some of the most significant sites tied to Napoleon’s time on St. Helena. Our first stop was Briars Cottage, the place where Napoleon spent his early days upon arriving on the island. It was fascinating to step into the very home where the exiled emperor took refuge as he adjusted to his new life.

Next, we visited Longwood House, where Napoleon spent the majority of his remaining years. This was his residence for the rest of his time on St. Helena, and it was in these rooms that he passed away. Afterward, we made our way to Napoleon's tomb in the Valley of the Tomb, where his remains are buried. Interestingly, his body was eventually exhumed and returned to France several years after his death.

The afternoon was ours to explore at leisure, allowing us time to relax and soak in the island’s tranquil beauty. To cap off the day, we enjoyed a memorable dinner at Anne's Place, a beloved restaurant that draws in both locals and yachties alike. The atmosphere was warm, the food was great, and it was the perfect way to end our day, immersed in history and good company.

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Day 8 – Time to say goodbye

The last morning on the island was spent picking up a couple of mementos from some of the local shops around town before checking out and heading back to the airport to catch our Airlink flight direct back to Cape Town.

An incredible experience full of culture, history, and adventure! I can confidently say that the people of St Helena are some of the warmest and friendliest out there, and the island is a gem that must be explored if you have the opportunity.