Fanjove Island - Travel Blog by Small World Marketing

The ultimate barefoot, no shoes, no news island paradise

Anita
Anita
Managing Director of Small World Marketing
Published on
01 May 2019
Updated on
25 Apr 2025
Fanjove Island Eco Banda

During a rich and intense 10-day familiarisation safari to Tanzania, Small World Marketing Managing Director Anita, and I visited the four properties of our exceptional and distinguished client, Selous Safari Company - including Fanjove Island, the newest property in the portfolio. Here’s what we found…

By Catherine Armstrong (Small World Marketing)

Fanjove From Plane
Coming into land

An unforgettable approach and arrival

The journey to Fanjove is a rewarding experience in itself, emphasising the fact that the island is satisfyingly and reassuringly remote, (as all good desert islands should be!) - a short flight from Dar in a light aircraft, with a stop in Mafia, and then on to Songo Songo.

Anita and I were the only passengers, and on a small air strip, with nothing but baobabs and a few goats, we were greeted by our chaperone in a tuk-tuk, who drove us across the island to the little jetty, where the elegant dhow that would sail us to Fanjove was seamlessly waiting

The lighthouse - that has graced Fanjove (as the only building in predominantly man-made materials) since 1863 – soon emerges on the horizon as a white pin-prick against a strip of green surrounded by azure waters, to signify that Fanjove island is within our sights. In time, the white dot takes a more elongated form, and the green transforms into discernible trees, fringed by a white bank of beach. The excitement is palpable as, coursing the waves, the features of the island emerge further, and eventually she looms large before us.

Rarely can disembarking a boat be this memorable. The delicate texture of the sand between one’s toes, and the heavenly temperature of the water, is a sensory highlight particularly symbolic when alighting in a place where man’s footsteps have been so few, and so light.

Fanjove Island Landing
Fanjove lighthouse and beach

The greeting on arrival is characteristic of the exceptional hospitality we had come to expect of the Selous Safari Company team – a refreshing flannel and a freshly prepared coconut drink all offered with delightful smiles and warmth

Fanjove Island Welcome Drink
Refreshing arrival drink

Accommodation and facilities

After chatting to Emile and Hakim, two of our hosts, about our schedule whilst on the island, we were shown to our rooms. Large, comfortable bandhas of natural materials with huge swing doors, made from the traditional plant weave, beyond which nothing but beach and ocean. (I chose not to shut these doors, as each bandha was completely secluded and the island – uninhabited apart from guests and the staff - felt so safe. As a result, waking up to the beauty of dawn breaking on the Indian ocean is now a privilege forever imprinted on my memory.) Sandy paths crossing the island connect the accommodation with the reception areas, or else one can walk the perimeter, along the beach.

Anita and I reconvened for a sundowner on the sands beneath the lighthouse

Fanjove Island Eco Banda
Eco-bandha

Unbeknownst to us, that day was an important one in the history of the island and its iconic lighthouse. Since SSC’s investment in stabilising the lighthouse after a period of disuse, the opportunity had arisen to return the light of the lighthouse to working order. The structure had been a lighthouse in name only since 1963… but, incredibly, the work to rectify this had been carried out that day. In an unintended and propitious stroke of fortune we therefore captured on time-lapse the illumination of the lighthouse for the first time in 55 years... Extraordinary to conceive that the last time the waters were lit by such a light, Tanzania was only in its second year as an independent nation, and the world was jiving to the ‘pioneering’ music of the Beatle’s debut album!

Fanjove Island Relaxing On The Beach
Enjoying a sundowner

Like I say this is just a sample of the activities on offer in this stunning island paradise. There are many other fun things to do in the Maldives such as paragliding, kayaking, canoeing, diving, snorkelling, catamaran sailing, kitesurfing, tennis, yoga, cooking classes, windsurfing, big game fishing and so much more. You'll just have to stay a few weeks to try them all!

Fanjove Island Cuisine
Fresh fish dishes

We enjoyed a delicious dinner of light fresh fish on the beach, and retired early, with the prospect of an excursion to spot dolphin the next morning

Whales and dolphins

Hakim is Fanjove’s expert dive instructor and was the Captain for our trip beyond the reef. Captain… and possibly Cetacean-Whisperer, it appears, as we spent an extraordinary and blissful morning, firstly in the majestic company of a mother and baby humpback whale, calling to each other; and secondly with multiple pods of spinner dolphins who joined us, leaping gleefully about the boat’s prow. To cap it all Hakim produced 2 snorkelling sets and invited us to submerge! It is not an exaggeration to say that swimming in the ocean with dolphin all around, within touching distance, and hearing them communicate under the waves was, for me, an all-time life highlight. ‘Spiritual’; ‘meditative’; ‘other-worldly’…were all descriptions that sprung to mind, as Anita and I shared this astonishing experience afterwards, both on a complete high.

Dolphins Around Fanjove Island
Swimming with dolphins

The only other boat on the seas that morning was a fisherman’s dhow, timelessly going about its daily task, sail billowing in the wind, and this, our lone neighbour, accentuated the sense that there really can be very few places as remote, unspoilt and peaceful as Fanjove left in the world

Fanjobve Island Dhow
Dhow sailing

When we returned to shore it was to meet Ricus and Pietro, the General Managers of Selous Safari Company, who had left the office in Dar to join us for a meeting on Fanjove, (though I am not sure that ‘meeting’ could ever imply such a pleasurable venue or experience!).

Fanjove Island Team
Fanjove Team

The Delports are extremely knowledgeable, engaging and experienced, and we were fortunate to benefit from a guided tour by them, around Fanjove island to see just how far SSC had improved Fanjove in the few months of its guardianship: improved staff quarters, kitchens, environmentally friendly resource systems. Overarching all this is are ambitious plans and an enlightened vision and commitment to both retain and maximise all that is special about this unique place. It provided fascinating insight.‍

The village walk

The island can be circumnavigated on foot in around an hour, and it is well worth it to gain perspective of the entire area. The staff quarters comprise examples of intricate traditional rustic architecture, and a reflection of the close community working there – ranging from a mosque to a hand-fashioned ‘gym’ (with ingeniously devised weighted plastic bottles as the ballasts).

SSC respect the position of the ‘Elder’ on Fanjove, who still lives on the island and he holds a ceremonial status and authority. The walk takes in his traditionally constructed abode but respects the boundaries of areas of the island which are sacred according to his belief system.

Fanjove Village
Village dwellings

It was a fascinating, albeit hot, afternoon’s tour around the island and we were all delighted to plunge into the ocean, before regrouping at the foot of the lighthouse to ascend for a sundowner par excellence on the lantern room gallery, from which the views speak for themselves

Fanjove Lighthouse View
Fanjove Lighthouse view
Fanjove Lighthouse Views
More stunning vistas

Down below on the beach, as dusk fell, the SSC team were busily preparing a bbq of fresh fish and salads (and bread which we would knead and toast ourselves) and when the sun had set we descended to enjoy this incredible-tasting fresh feast.

Anita and I were determined not to miss the opportunity for one last ocean adventure before embarking on our journey home, so, on our final morning, we rose early and set off to try to spot more dolphin. We weren’t disappointed. This time, no swimming, as the waves were much higher, but the dolphin were equally as plentiful and acrobatic around the boat. We then did some snorkelling closer to shore where we encountered octopus, all manner of exotic, colourful fish, and witnessed some of new coral reef Hakim had planted and nurtured, and which was now taking hold, in the shallower waters.

Then, sadly, it was time to depart and say goodbye to this latest little piece of heaven.

Fanjove On Beach
Beach time

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Shirley Newman

What can I say….my son and myself had the most wonderful time in Kenya thanks to the first-class itinerary that Ben and Louise put together for us. We spoke with Ben many times to ensure he ‘got it right’. This was our 2nd visit to Kenya, and it certainly lived up to our expectations and memories. Throughout our time in Kenya, we saw many lions, giraffes, elephants, ostriches, hyenas, cheetahs, and leopards, to name just a few. Nothing was too much trouble for all the staff; we cannot have been looked after any better. I would highly recommend Far and Wild; they are so knowledgeable and have personally visited the lodges and areas. We are already planning another visit, and we cannot wait. Since our return again Ben phoned to see how it went in addition to emails.

August, 2025
Elizabeth Spells

I have just returned from the most amazing trip to Tanzania, booked with Far & Wild. Everything went so smoothly from the first time I spoke with them. The planning was great, the itinerary was perfect for us, and the lodges were amazing. We spent 10 nights with an amazing guide, travelling through Northern Tanzania and even got to see the migration, which was a lifetime ambition of mine. This wasn't our first safari, so we were nervous as to how it would compare, but it was spot on. We're particularly grateful that she suggested a private 'bush lunch' in the Ngorongoro Crater as the public picnic spot was very busy! I will certainly be using them again to book our next trip....we're thinking of a relaxing beach stay next time to get over the excitement of safari!

July, 2024
Orla Rhodes

Just back from another amazing F&W organised trip to Namibia with the family (8 adults). Having been there before, Alistair tailored our trip to include our favourite locations and added a new one for us, Okonjima Plains camp, which we loved.The quality of accommodation and guiding, activities, food and drinks was exceptional throughout. Although not inexpensive I felt it was good value for the level of luxury we had. Kwessi Dunes, Shipwreck lodge, Ongava, Okonjima with pit stops Windhoek (city tour recommended ), Swakopmund (Sandwich Harbour and Walvis Bay tour) and Grootberg lodge (best sundowner drive )

June, 2024
Arnhild Schia

We had a wonderful trip to São Tomé and Príncipe - a small island nation in the Gulf of Guinea with paradise (almost empty) beaches and jungle forest. It was all well organised by Far and Wild and we stayed at Omali lodge at Sao Tome, then on Roca Sundy, and Sunday Praia at Principe - a great combination of different types of resorts/hotels. Omali is close to Sao Tome town with its colonial buildings, markets, hustle and bustle. Roca Sunday gives an old plantation experience and Sundy Praia a luxury beach experience. Very friendly (from time to time a bit slow) service, great fresh food, specifically if you like fish/seafood, vegetables and fruits (almost all sourced locally). Nice temperature between 23 and 30 degrees Celsius, nice swimming conditions. We really recommend this for those who want to experience a pristine destination with few other tourists and friendly and welcoming people. The islands also feel (and I believe are) very safe. At Principe, there are no dangerous animals, snakes or whatever, and it was great to be able to hike in the jungle without being very conscious of where to put your hands and feet. Go before everyone else does!

July, 2024
Henri Papenfus

Back home again, basking in the joys of a superb safari. Every aspect you arranged for us, including linking up with Mack Air and Wild Horizons locally to transport us. The choice of camps, Camp Hwange in Zimbabwe and Muchenenje Safari Lodge in Botswana, was spot on and exactly what we had hoped for - ideally situated, comfortable, in good surroundings, and with excellent wildlife on the doorstep and throughout the wider country. The service staff in each looked after us very well, catering was excellent, and the game guides were professional, knowledgeable and helpful. The weather was, as usual for that part of the world, also good at the time of our visit. Blue skies and stunning sunsets. Warm but not too hot during the day, although quite cold at sunrise when viewing game. The viewing started. You made us happy, and we recommend you to similar safari enthusiasts with confidence.

June, 2024
AC

Far and Wild went above and beyond to make sure my trip to Zambia was special. I would definitely recommend them and their services to anyone wanting to travel to Africa.

May, 2024
Tiny

Lovely holiday at the amazing Almanara on Galu beach, a beach like no other. Far and Wild excelled themselves from beginning to end of our holiday in beautiful Kenya.... What a country!,

April, 2024
Stodge

Wow! These guys are amazing. Can’t recommend them highly enough. Friendly AND efficient! Sorted out our trip (last minute and lots of different family member needs, sorry!) in record time and everything worked like clockwork. Trip of a lifetime to the Masai Mara. Will be back (and use F&W again!)!

March, 2024
Fiona C

It was a dreamy holiday on the Kenyan Coast - Far and Wild, their efficiency and professionalism allowed us to relax and be the happiest family alive !! We cannot fault them, their care and understanding of what we wanted from a holiday ensured we had the most memorable trip. We will be booking with them again for sure!

March, 2024