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Tracking Chimpanzees in Mahale Mountains National Park
If you're thinking of looking for Chimps in Mahale, I'd suggest aiming for travel from mid-August to October, with September having an edge over the other months. Traditionally the driest period in Mahale, chimpanzees are ,more likely to have moved down from the steep ravines and gorges to the lower parts of the forest. There, they tend to be easier to locate.
My last visit was in June, usually regarded as among the least productive months in which to track Mahale's chimps. Traditionally June follows the wet season (mid- March, April and May), but at that time the chimps are still likely to be high up in steep ravines, far from the shores of Lake Tanganyika. So you may be faced with a 1,000m climb. Out of the possible three full days of trekking, we managed to successfully locate the chimps twice. But the chimpanzee experiences were quite different than each-other.
Excitement grew on Day 1 as we learnt that after a few days of not having being seen, the chimpanzees had finally been located. As our luck would have it, uncharacteristically for this time of the year, they had come down onto the lower slopes of the forest, about an hour away. We wolfed down our breakfast and left Greystoke Mahale, on the sandy lakeshores, for the dense rainforest.
After an hour of tracking, we were told to don our surgical masks in preparation of spending the magical hour or so with our closest relatives. All trackers, including researchers and the Tanzania National Park Authority (TANAPA) park rangers, are required to wear mouth and nose masks in order to reduce the chances of chimps contracting communicable human diseases.
How wonderful it was to suddenly find ourselves among a group of chimps in their natural home and having these glimpses into their daily lives. On this occasion, as we had located the chimps quite early, they were still resting on the forest floor and grooming one another. As any self-respecting chimps would do in the early mornings. Their behaviour changes quite abruptly around mid morning, when they start moving briskly through the forest looking food. Then, they're also a lot more vocal.
I mentioned our second chimp trek was very different: the chimps had moved high up to very dense forest. And so the hike was long and tough - something I'd rate on a par with a gorilla trek. Terrain was steep, so much so that in places we were scrambling on all fours, grabbing vines to help us retain balance. Its worth noting that in June, Mahale chimp tracking is usually like this. What sometimes take about 9 hours, we completed in six. But discomfort was more than compensated for by the time we got to spend among the chimps - what an experience!
I've been chimp tracking about 7 times in Uganda too, but this was the first time I'd managed to observe their behaviour so carefully. Their social interaction is so interesting their interaction so closely. Mostly, they groom themselves and one-another. But I was able to discern a ranking system and all sorts of 'politics' that would come into play. If, for example, the alpha male decided to move, then many of the lower ranked individuals would make way for him. I think my most memorable experience was on the second day. We were very close to losing the entire troop as they were about to venture high into a gorge that was an uncharted part of the forest as terrain was just too steep. We had the privilege of sitting roughly 10 metres away from two female chimps who were in fact sisters. They lay on their backs next to each, other holding hands. Not only that, but they would also intertwine their arms and hands together, a sign of true affection. And another memory which I will savour for the rest of my life!
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What can I say….my son and myself had the most wonderful time in Kenya thanks to the first-class itinerary that Ben and Louise put together for us. We spoke with Ben many times to ensure he ‘got it right’. This was our 2nd visit to Kenya, and it certainly lived up to our expectations and memories. We stayed in four locations, firstly at the wonderful El Karama Lodge, Laikipia Wildlife Conservancy, where we even had a visit from Ruth from Far and Wild! Then, for a return visit, to Saruni Samburu, which is absolutely stunning and still one of our favourite places in the world. Next came Basecamp Mara Camp, where we saw our first Cheetah, the only animal we didn’t see on our first visit. After that, onto the wonderful Leopards Hill in the Naiboisho Conservancy, what a way to spend the last four days of this trip. Here we finally spent many hours with a beautiful leopard. Throughout our time in Kenya, we saw many lions, giraffes, elephants, ostriches, hyenas, cheetahs, and leopards, to name just a few. Nothing was too much trouble for all the staff; we cannot have been looked after any better. Since our return again Ben phoned to see how it went in addition to emails. I would highly recommend Far and Wild; they are so knowledgeable and have personally visited the lodges and areas. We are already planning another visit, and we cannot wait.
I have just returned from the most amazing trip to Tanzania, booked with Far & Wild. Everything went so smoothly from the first time I spoke with them. The planning was great, the itinerary was perfect for us, and the lodges were amazing. We spent 10 nights with an amazing guide, travelling through Northern Tanzania and even got to see the migration, which was a lifetime ambition of mine. This wasn't our first safari, so we were nervous as to how it would compare, but it was spot on. We're particularly grateful that she suggested a private 'bush lunch' in the Ngorongoro Crater as the public picnic spot was very busy! I will certainly be using them again to book our next trip....we're thinking of a relaxing beach stay next time to get over the excitement of safari!
Just back from another amazing F&W organised trip to Namibia with the family (8 adults). Having been there before, Alistair tailored our trip to include our favourite locations and added a new one for us, Okonjima Plains camp, which we loved.The quality of accommodation and guiding, activities, food and drinks was exceptional throughout. Although not inexpensive I felt it was good value for the level of luxury we had. Kwessi Dunes, Shipwreck lodge, Ongava, Okonjima with pit stops Windhoek (city tour recommended ), Swakopmund (Sandwich Harbour and Walvis Bay tour) and Grootberg lodge (best sundowner drive )
We had a wonderful trip to São Tomé and Príncipe - a small island nation in the Gulf of Guinea with paradise (almost empty) beaches and jungle forest. It was all well organised by Far and Wild and we stayed at Omali lodge at Sao Tome, then on Roca Sundy, and Sunday Praia at Principe - a great combination of different types of resorts/hotels. Omali is close to Sao Tome town with its colonial buildings, markets, hustle and bustle. Roca Sunday gives an old plantation experience and Sundy Praia a luxury beach experience. Very friendly (from time to time a bit slow) service, great fresh food, specifically if you like fish/seafood, vegetables and fruits (almost all sourced locally). Nice temperature between 23 and 30 degrees Celsius, nice swimming conditions. We really recommend this for those who want to experience a pristine destination with few other tourists and friendly and welcoming people. The islands also feel (and I believe are) very safe. At Principe, there are no dangerous animals, snakes or whatever, and it was great to be able to hike in the jungle without being very conscious of where to put your hands and feet. Go before everyone else does!
Back home again, basking in the joys of a superb safari. Every aspect you arranged for us, including linking up with Mack Air and Wild Horizons locally to transport us. The choice of camps, Camp Hwange in Zimbabwe and Muchenenje Safari Lodge in Botswana, was spot on and exactly what we had hoped for - ideally situated, comfortable, in good surroundings, and with excellent wildlife on the doorstep and throughout the wider country. The service staff in each looked after us very well, catering was excellent, and the game guides were professional, knowledgeable and helpful. The weather was, as usual for that part of the world, also good at the time of our visit. Blue skies and stunning sunsets. Warm but not too hot during the day, although quite cold at sunrise when viewing game. The viewing started. You made us happy, and we recommend you to similar safari enthusiasts with confidence.
Far and Wild went above and beyond to make sure my trip to Zambia was special. I would definitely recommend them and their services to anyone wanting to travel to Africa.
Lovely holiday at the amazing Almanara on Galu beach, a beach like no other. Far and Wild excelled themselves from beginning to end of our holiday in beautiful Kenya.... What a country!,
Wow! These guys are amazing. Can’t recommend them highly enough. Friendly AND efficient! Sorted out our trip (last minute and lots of different family member needs, sorry!) in record time and everything worked like clockwork. Trip of a lifetime to the Masai Mara. Will be back (and use F&W again!)!
It was a dreamy holiday on the Kenyan Coast - Far and Wild, their efficiency and professionalism allowed us to relax and be the happiest family alive !! We cannot fault them, their care and understanding of what we wanted from a holiday ensured we had the most memorable trip. We will be booking with them again for sure!
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