Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula: An Expert Guide to the Best Lodges

Playa Cativo - Golfo Dulce

A magical escape in every sense, Playa Cativo Lodge is a true ‘slice of paradise’. After a short domestic flight to Golfito, you're whisked across the Golfo Dulce by boat, cruising past thick jungle coastline, with the occasional dolphin keeping you company. You arrive directly on the beach to a warm welcome, a cool drink, and a refreshing cold towel. It’s the kind of arrival that instantly sets the tone: relaxed, natural, and quietly luxurious.

Set within a 1,000-acre private nature reserve, Playa Cativo offers a main lodge and several standalone casitas, all designed to immerse you in the natural surroundings. I stayed in a Deluxe Ocean View room in the main lodge, which had the most spectacular views over the gulf. With just a fine bug screen between you and the outside world, you fall asleep to the gentle sounds of the rainforest and wake with the sunrise and birdsong.

Service here is attentive without being overbearing, managed via WhatsApp, with the team always on hand to help you plan your day or simply bring another coffee.

El Remanso Lodge

After a scenic 30-minute boat ride across the Golfo Dulce, I arrived in the small town of Puerto Jiménez, the gateway to one of Costa Rica’s most biodiverse corners. For guests heading to El Remanso Lodge, this is where the adventure begins. Most will fly in directly, then continue with a 30 to 45-minute, sometimes bumpy, road transfer through lush, tropical forest.

Perched on the southern tip of the Osa Peninsula, El Remanso is everything I love about this part of Costa Rica: wild, untouched nature, incredible wildlife, and a deep-rooted commitment to sustainability, all wrapped up in a relaxed, comfortable stay.

From the moment I arrived, I felt it. A genuine, warm welcome at reception, followed by that wonderful sense of being completely cocooned by the rainforest. Birds calling in every direction, the distant sound of the Pacific, towering trees all around, it's immersive from the start. Wooden walkways wind through the forest to your room and to the open-air restaurant, which (brilliantly) has no Wi-Fi, so you can properly switch off and enjoy being present.

Lapa Rios Lodge

In the same area as El Remanso, the wild Osa Peninsula, Lapa Rios Lodge is completely immersed in the rainforest. Perched high about the Pacific Ocean, the views are spectacular with the magical remote, immersed in nature feeling yet with all the luxury you could wish for.

From the moment I arrived, you instantly feel relaxed. I had only stepped into the restaurant's main area when I spotted scarlet macaws overhead! The accommodation is spread throughout the forest, with 17 thatched-roof eco-lodges, including beautiful suites, bungalows, and villas. Sadly, I was only on a quick visit to this lodge however, I could fully imagine staying in the bungalow with the wide-screened walls that opened to the canopy and a terrace where I could sit with a morning coffee, watching toucans and listening to the ocean in the distance. It felt like living in a adults-only styled, luxurious treehouse.

If you can drag yourself away from the bungalow, Lapa Rios offers a variety of complimentary guided experiences which really bring the surroundings to life. For early risers, there is a sunrise birdwatching walk, rainforest hikes to the beach and night walks to enjoy the jungle’s after-dark drama such as glowing insects, calling owls, and shy nocturnal mammals.

Discover an untouched corner of Costa Rica that remains refreshingly undiscovered compared to popular destinations like Tortuguero, Arenal, and Monteverde. This remote paradise, accessible primarily by air, maintains an intimate atmosphere with boutique lodges offering fewer than 20 rooms each.