Traveller's Tales: Amanda Discovers South America's Best Kept Secret

Introduction

Over the years, I’ve travelled to most countries in South America. Despite several stays in Buenos Aires, Argentina, I had never made the final ferry trip across the Rio de la Plata (River Plate) to Uruguay—until now. The experience proved outstanding in many ways.

Uruguay is a country of understated charm, exuding a laidback vibe that offers the inquisitive traveller a richly varied, immersive experience. Politically stable, progressive, and wonderfully modern, this prosperous nation is a joy to explore.

The key destinations are all within a modest driving distance, meaning air travel isn’t necessary. As a perfect self-drive destination, Uruguay offers well-maintained roads, clear signposting (including speed camera warnings), and above all, quiet routes—even in the capital, Montevideo. Locals are genuinely welcoming, hospitable, and naturally proud of their homeland.

Throughout a trip, each region reveals its unique identity, history, energy, and natural beauty. A week or more in Uruguay offers ample opportunities to discover historic towns, the vast grasslands of the pampa, vine-covered hills, and the wistful allure of long sandy beaches dotted with windswept dunes. Accommodation ranges from small, family-run establishments where guests feel truly at home to more luxurious, yet still beautifully boutique, options.

Whatever your style or preference, we can craft a truly wonderful trip to Uruguay, such as our Luxury Uruguay offering or Highlights of Uruguay. Below are the main attractions and my favourite places to stay.

Colonia

Perched on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, Colonia’s old town provides a picturesque introduction to colonial Uruguay. Here, I met my guide Fabian for an introductory walk through the cobblestone streets, crumbling fortress, leafy central plaza and the historic Colonia lighthouse which dominates the historic quarter skyline.

Colonia was originally a Portuguese settlement, before being ousted by the Spanish in 1828. Each had their distinct architecture and designs which are evident throughout the town. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which means maintenance of the colonial houses, with their faded paintwork and crumbling exteriors is expensive and time-consuming. Sadly, before the introduction of this status many traditional dwellings were destroyed and replaced with modern structures.

Streets are adorned with vibrant purple bougainvillea trees and vintage cars in an array of disrepair. Although the town is bustling during the day, once the late afternoon ferry departs back to Buenos Aires, the tranquility resumes.

My charming hotel for the evening was Posada Plaza Mayor, a former ranch and colonial home, converted into a stylish boutique hotel. Accessed through the main courtyard, my senior room was dominated with brickwork and calming colours. The room overlooked the street however noise was never noticeable, and although in the heart of the historic centre, parking was easy. The hotel is full of quirky features and historic (small) doors with an upstairs lounge style area offering breakfast.

Upgraded option

A short walk away, overlooking the Rio de la Plata is the Charco Hotel, offering a similar colonial-style stay. Here, the most attractive rooms are in the old part of the property with the traditional brickwork, historic features and old-world ambiance. Modern rooms and a small pool are adjacent to the main building; however they just didn’t have the Colonia styled charm. At the Charco Hotel, there is a full-service bistro (with discount for Posada Plaza Mayor guests) and the wonderful view over the river. A very romantic location for a laidback evening meal.

Fun fact: Colonia is more than history and cobblestone streets. The town has a large boardwalk overlooking the river which is ideal for a stroll or run. At the far end, you will find the historic bullring (Plaza Toros) dating back to the early 20th century which is now used for concerts, shows and festivals.

Carmelo

An hour to the north of Colonia del Sacramento lies Carmelo, a slow-paced town set amidst vineyards, orchards, and olive groves. A short distance before the town lies the Jesuit Ruins of Calera de las Huérfanas, offering a glimpse into Uruguay’s colonial and spiritual history. The main draw of this region is its boutique wineries, particularly Bodega el Legado, Bodega Cordano, and Narbona Winery. Each offers Uruguay’s flagship varietal, Tannat, with its bold, earthy flavours.

Bodega el Legado

Bodega el Legado is a small, family-run winery near the town of Carmelo, where Bernardo Marzuca and his family offer a warm, personal welcome. This boutique winery is the perfect blend of tranquility and sophistication, offering four stylish rooms (with three more in progress) just a short distance from the main house, alongside a fresh new swimming pool to enjoy on sunny summer days.

Bodega el Legado produces only four artisanal varieties of wine, with their most famous being the powerful, perfumed Syrah. They also offer Viognier, Tannat, and a Tannat/Syrah blend — and naturally, I had to try them all! It was a perfect warm, sunny day, which made the Viognier white wine a refreshing choice. The tasting experience was paired with a delicious meat and local cheese platter, and lunch is also offered. I also had the opportunity to try one of their red wines straight from the barrel, as all wine production is done on-site. A truly unique experience!

Next stop was Bodega Cordona, Almacén de la Capilla, another boutique winery that has been producing wine for five generations. This winery has a similar setup, where I enjoyed more wines in their shaded outdoor area. It's a larger production, but still with wines made on-site and accompanied by a fantastic deli offering local treats!

Upgraded option

A little further along the coast from the town of Carmelo lies the luxurious Narbona Wine Lodge. This stylish historic lodge, restaurant, and farm is internationally renowned and a significant draw for the region. Established in 1909, the estate was one of Uruguay’s first wineries. Narbona began its journey as a modern wine producer in 1998 when 15 hectares of vineyards were planted near the riverbanks under the expert guidance of winemaker and owner, Valeria Chiola.

We were fortunate to have expert oenologist Valeria personally lead us through a tasting of rich Tannat, Petit Verdot, Syrah, and Pinot Noir. She explained the different flavours from each blend and where we would experience these on our palate. The tasting was accompanied by a delicious cheese board, alongside locally produced meats and a smooth, sweet quince.

The lodge has just five rooms, each named after a type of wine. My room, the beautiful 'Rosé,' overlooked the vineyards and featured a spacious bathroom, a super-comfy bed, and a cosy sitting area—perfect for enjoying a glass of wine. The room also features a large outdoor area, bathed in sunshine during the day and offering a snug spot by a roaring fire in the evening.

Narbona Wine Lodge is the ideal retreat for indulging in the finest food and wine the region has to offer. The excellent in-house restaurant provides an authentic experience for both breakfast and dinner with my dining highlight being their juicy Uruguayan beef steak, paired with a rich Tannat. For dessert, I highly recommend the ‘dulce de leche’ volcano, a sweet treat featuring their exquisite, locally made dulce de leche (a caramel-style spread and literally translated as sweet milk).

Although 'dulce de leche' is found throughout Uruguay, Narbona's produce is recognised as one of the best and produced in house. Although I'd tasted it many times before on my travels in South America, this was definitely one of the best - I could literally eat it with every meal or straight from the jar!

Fun fact: The entire Uruguayan wine industry produces just 4% of all the wine in South America. This is a small figure compared to Argentina’s 45%, Chile’s 36%, and Brazil’s 13%, though it is slightly more than Peru. It’s a real pleasure to enjoy such small-batch, carefully crafted wines.

Uruguay's Interior

Deep in Uruguay’s interior lies a vast, flat landscape, ideal for cattle farming. It’s no surprise that Uruguay produces some of the tastiest, most tender steaks you’ll ever find. Scattered across the plains are estancias like El Balcón del Abra, which offer an immersive experience to learn about and participate in rural life.

En-route to the estancia, we stopped in the town of Mariscala, a small, close-knit community where visited Lo del Negro for lunch. This small, local restaurant was the perfect place to sample Uruguay’s national dish, the chivito. This “mega” sandwich is made with slices of local beef, mozzarella cheese, ham, tomatoes, mayonnaise, and black or green olives. If that’s not indulgent enough, you can also add bacon and a fried egg—it’s absolutely delicious!

Leaving the main highway in Mariscala and travelling along smaller country roads, we arrived at El Balcón del Abra. This charming ranch epitomises rural Uruguayan life, and we were warmly welcomed by Diego and Escobar the pig, who was lounging on the front lawn.

Next to the estancia is a natural swimming pool, and guests can enjoy a variety of activities to explore the local area, including horseback riding, canoeing, trekking, mountain biking, paragliding, and motorbike tours. As we arrived late in the day, Diego took us on a walk along the river, hoping to spot capybaras. I was lucky to see one from afar, and we heard a group “barking” beside the river before they jumped into the water.

Meals at the estancia are home-cooked and served family-style in the dining room with Diego and other guests. The food is simple but delicious, and the desserts are particularly memorable - more dulce de leche! Life on the ranch follows its own pace, so settle in, unwind, and enjoy the experience.

Fun fact: One of the most enjoyable aspects of travelling is experiencing something for the very first time. After dinner, we headed outside to the reeds by the estancia's natural swimming pool (so literally a 2 minute walk) to where fireflies gather to create a magical light display in the night sky.

This is a regular natural occurence in this spot, as the fireflies love wet, wooded areas which offer an abundant food source. A truly unforgettable first for me!

Jose Ignacio

The perfect conclusion to my Uruguay experience was a stay in José Ignacio, a once-sleepy fishing village that has transformed into South America’s trendiest beach destination. Delightfully small, with vast stretches of picture-perfect beaches, it’s truly idyllic. There are no high-rise buildings, and the hotels are small and charming, ensuring that even during high season, José Ignacio never feels overcrowded.

Posada del Faro is a boutique hotel with a distinctive Mediterranean charm. While not directly on the beach, it’s just a short stroll away, and the posada features its own small swimming pool with plenty of shaded areas. The friendly, welcoming owners are always ready with suggestions for exploring the local area, whether on foot or with the complimentary bikes provided by the hotel. Dining in José Ignacio is a true delight, with a variety of high-end restaurants and more modest options nearby, all of which the hosts can recommend.

Although I’m not an art aficionado, I found it fascinating to visit the MACA Museum, where world-renowned Uruguayan artist Pablo Atchugarry showcases his magnificent abstract and sensual marble sculptures. The museum grounds are expansive, offering the perfect opportunity for a leisurely walk and a picnic lunch in the serene gardens. Once I became familiar with Atchugarry’s style, I started noticing his distinctive sculptures throughout my travels.

Upgraded option

Nestled in the breezy sand dunes just west of José Ignacio is Bahia Vik, offering a truly unique and unparalleled beachside experience. The swimming pools, restaurant, and outdoor decks provide sweeping views of the Southern Atlantic Ocean, with an outdoor firepit perfect for enjoying sultry sunsets alongside a glass of VIK wine, imported from their world-class winery VIK Chile near Santiago in Chile. Again, I moved away from the red wine and enjoyed their light, fruity rose option.

While Bahia Vik has more rooms than most hotels in the area, they are impressively secluded along the beachfront dunes, offering privacy and those all-important spectacular views.

Art is a central feature throughout the hotel, with each room individually styled. My personal favourite area is the bar and restaurant, which features a stunning ceiling that inspires reflection while you soak in the peaceful ambiance. Nearby, the VIK sister properties are also worth exploring—or, as we did, enjoying an overnight stay at Estancia Vik.

Located inland, Estancia Vik is a true oasis amidst the seemingly endless plains of the interior. It’s the perfect spot for a horseback ride with the gauchos or a hearty traditional asado. Although I’m not an experienced rider, I decided to give it a try with my trusty horse, Naranjo, who had a wonderfully leisurely pace and enjoyed frequent stops for snacks.

Along the coast, Playa Vik offers an oceanfront deck and a striking, seemingly floating swimming pool. Although we didn’t stay at this wonderful hotel we enjoyed the Friday evening, delicious fish BBQ. Although the number of courses initially seemed overwhelming, each dish was perfectly presented, just the right size, and bursting with flavour. It was the perfect conclusion to a sun-soaked day.

Fun fact: We rode with the head gaucho, who was photographed "at work" for a top U.S. travel magazine. Not just a gaucho, but also a model, an achievement he is clearly very proud of.

Conclusion

Over the past 25 years, I’ve travelled extensively throughout Latin America, with Uruguay being one of the last countries on my list. Perhaps age brings a sense of reflection, as I found myself truly appreciating the slow-paced lifestyle. I wholeheartedly encourage everyone to take the time to explore this incredible destination, even if just for a few days. It’s an easy and seamless addition to any trip to Argentina or Brazil.